8 Courses and a rhubarb cocktail makes for a perfect night at Mr Nobody.
Where does time go? It only seems like yesterday that I was writing about a great new Leeds restaurant by the name of Mr Nobody.
Now they’re 1 year old and I’m back again to see if they’ve managed to maintain the same level of awesomeness that I wrote about last time I visited.
Accompanied by my old friend Mr H, we set out on a Thursday night to sample their brand new menu which celebrates their 1st year in business.
Before we get down to matters downstairs in the restaurant area, we’re invited to take a drink in the newly fantasically reconfigured seating area in the bar area, 2 guys sipping Rhubarb & Elderflower Spritz and listening to Jazz notes from the live band.
This feels rather sophisticated, a million miles away from the days when Mr H and myself would sit with a pint of ale in a spit and saw dust kind of establishment putting the world to rights, what’s happened to us? This is either a personal midlife crisis or Mr H is teaching me the way’s of people much older than me!
Our journey downstairs presents a familiar restaurant area, I’m delighted to see that I can actually see! I’d been rather critical in my previous review, for me the lighting was inadequate, that’s changed, the restaurant is a modern well lit and well laid out area, which for midweek is relatively busy with a great atmosphere.
What’s also immediately noticeable is the level of service, a wine expert and two impeccable waitresses take care of us for the evening, the conversation and levels of knowledge of the food is outstanding given this is a brand new menu, every course is perfectly described to us, nothing seems too much trouble.
We both opt for the 8 course taster menu which starts with the most amazing pickled roots, Mr Nobody labels this as the snack course, I’ll be honest, if all vegetables tasted like this then unhealthy snacks would be a thing of the past.
Next their familiar home baked bread with butter and cods roe, the no yeast bread tastes exactly how bread should, and whilst some may greet the addition of cods roe with some skepticism my advice would be to try it and then judge, it’s an absolute delight!
We’re then taken to Scotland and the best salmon money can buy, Inverawe smoked salmon, again this isn’t new to me, my first experience was indeed at Mr Nobody 12 months ago and I’m delighted to see it on the menu again.
Next the course that Mr H declares the best yet, celery root & chicken Sui Mai with mushroom, a dish that deserves special praise, not only for the intense flavour of chicken that runs throughout the dish but also the time and technique that goes into a dish like this, it’s delicate yet flavoursome, layers of flavor are complex yet somehow simple, it’s a triumph.
I have similar praise for the Roast Scampi with hot tartare & seaweed, but it’s the Fish & Scraps, aged beef dripping and chippy curry that’s really got me salivating, wow this is immense, the most intense fish and scraps I’ve ever tasted, yet it’s elegant, it’s inspiration may have come from the chippy but the flavor is more Michelin star.
With the fish behind us we move back to meat and this time lamb, to be exact; burnt sweet potato, braised texel lamb breast and smoked anchovy, it’s at this point Mr H has a declaration to make “this is my favorite so far”.
That’s a bold statement given the appreciation of the chicken dish but deservedly so, I’m also a huge lamb fan and this is about as good as it gets, again packed full of layers of flavor it’s a well balanced dish and further displays the talents of the chefs that have prepared and created a dish of this standard.
We finish this culinary adventure with desserts, to turn our taste buds sweet, the first is a desi tea with cardamon served with an anise doughnut and that’s followed by Gariguette Strawberries with Mascarpone Cream, Strawberry Juice and Wild Strawberry Jelly.
On our departure Mr H suggests that the meal at Mr Nobody is by far the best he’s had in some time and I have no reason to question that, by far the best meal I’ve eaten this year, highly recommended.
Mr Nobody Cocktail Bar & Restaurant | 163 Lower Briggate | Leeds | LS1 6LY
Tel. 0113 246 7013