Where Tradition Meets Tasteful Luxury in Sedbergh
The Black Bull sits at the heart of Sedbergh, a storybook town on the edge of the Yorkshire Dales, known for its bookshops, historic charm, and views of the Howgill Fells. But step inside this 17th-century coaching inn, and you’ll discover more than history; you’ll find refined comfort, ambitious cooking, and a warmth that lingers long after your stay.
Owned and run by James Ratcliffe and Head Chef Nina Matsunaga, The Black Bull is a marriage of countryside heritage and international flair. Their ethos? Use what’s local, cook with heart, and never forget where you came from.
Dining That Dazzles – A Feast to Remember
We arrived on a cool spring evening and were greeted with genuine smiles and easy charm that instantly relaxed us. The menu reads like a love letter to northern produce, with local meats, foraged vegetables, and wild game taking centre stage. What sets The Black Bull apart isn’t just the quality of the ingredients; it’s the confident, thoughtful way they’re brought together. Every dish tells a story, from Cumbria’s fellside farms and rivers to Japanese misos and German pastries that whisper of Nina’s culinary heritage.
Our meal began with crispy Korean beef served with shiso and sesame. What could have been a punchy fusion dish was, in fact, remarkably nuanced. The beef was perfectly tender with a caramelised edge, elevated by the shiso’s aromatic freshness and sesame’s delicate nuttiness. It struck the perfect balance between East and West, a signature of Nina’s style. It whetted the appetite while hinting at the depth of thought behind each flavour.
Then came the starters. My wife chose the cod cheek, paired with bergamot, Westmorland asparagus, and wild garlic. The cod was beautifully flaky, its richness countered by the citrusy lift of bergamot and the verdant, fresh notes of spring greens and wild herbs. This dish tasted of the landscape, earthy, bright, and deeply satisfying.
I selected the Howgill Herdwick lamb tartare, which arrived artfully plated with kimchi, spring onion, and soy-cured hens’ yolk. This dish encapsulated the whole ethos of The Black Bull: bold, rooted in the Dales, yet open to global influence. The zing of the kimchi and the luscious richness of the yolk perfectly offset the intensely flavourful and tender lamb. The interplay of textures, soft lamb, crisp garnish, and silky yolk made each mouthful exciting.
But the highlight? Without question, it was the venison. I’ve eaten in some exceptional restaurants this year, but this dish is in a league of its own. The meat, locally sourced, was roasted until blush-pink and impossibly tender. Its depth of flavour was remarkable, enhanced by a bittersweet beetroot purée and a coffee jus that brought out the meat’s gamier notes without overwhelming it. There was also wild garlic on the plate, bright green and heady, echoing the lushness of the season. Every component had a purpose, and together they sang. It was rich but never heavy, refined but never fussy. Truly one of the most memorable dishes I’ve had in a very long time.
Across the table, my wife tucked into the shorthorn beef pie, which came with buttery pastry and layers of slow-cooked beef that fell apart with a nudge of the fork—accompanied by creamy potatoes and a rich gravy, comfort food elevated to something quite special, a nod to British classics but executed with the same precision as the fine-dining plates. It’s rare to see a menu that celebrates the humble pie and hand-cut sashimi with equal reverence, but The Black Bull manages it effortlessly.
Side dishes weren’t overlooked either, such as roasted miso carrots that had just the right hit of umami to cut through the richness of the meat dishes.
And then, dessert.
I chose the Yorkshire rhubarb with custard tart, served alongside Fen Farm Dairy yoghurt. It was everything you want in a rhubarb dessert: tart and tongue-tingling, with the custard providing a smooth, creamy balance. The yoghurt added just the right acidity, tying the whole plate together. It was light, seasonal, and exquisitely British.
My wife’s pick, the sticky toffee pudding, truly celebrated the classics, moist sponge, deep with flavour, and drenched in a dark, rich toffee sauce. The accompanying ice cream brought a welcome contrast in temperature and texture, turning a familiar dessert into something worth savouring slowly.
One clear thing at The Black Bull is that food is never an afterthought. Ingredients are respected, the sourcing is meticulous, and the execution is extraordinary. Whether it’s wild venison from nearby fells, game from the woodlands, or asparagus picked within sight of the dining room, every plate has a profound sense of place and pride.
Rooms That Restore and Impress
The rooms at The Black Bull deserve as much praise as the kitchen. Thoughtfully designed to honour the inn’s coaching heritage, each room blends period charm with modern luxury. Expect soft linens, calming tones, and tactile textures.
The bathrooms are true havens, with freestanding baths, walk-in rain showers, and underfloor heating. After a day exploring Sedbergh’s winding streets or walking the nearby fells, returning to such a space is a balm for the soul. Each room even includes a cosy lounge area, ideal for sipping a coffee and watching the countryside shift through the window.
James & Nina: The Heart of The Black Bull
Much of what makes The Black Bull special stems from James and Nina’s vision. James, raised in the Lune Valley, brings local knowledge, warmth, and a knack for hospitality. Nina, trained in culinary technique and creativity, crafts menus that pay tribute to the region’s larder while introducing global ideas in subtle, intelligent ways.
Their journey, from Manchester’s street food scene to this refined Sedbergh spot, infuses everything they do with passion, purpose, and personality.
A Jewel in the Dales’ Crown
The Black Bull is a place that makes you want to linger for another glass of wine, another walk around Sedbergh, another morning in the freestanding tub. It’s elegant but never stiff, relaxed but meticulously run.
Whether you’re a food lover hunting your next great meal, a couple escaping the city, or a curious traveller exploring Yorkshire’s quieter corners, The Black Bull offers an experience that delivers on every level.
